Saturday, May 29, 2010
The Floating Village
Absolutely unbelievable! My mind cannot rest because it is still swirling from blocks of color and reflecting light! Last night, some of the guys from Sustainable Cambodia (SC) took us 'barangs' (the Khmer word for 'foreigners') out to the Floating Village that is located on Tonle Sap Lake. When we first approached the entrance I was a bit worried because the poverty conditions were so harsh. Thatched dwellings that looked like they were about to fall over were baking in the sun-- no trees or vegetation to seek refuge from the searing heat. Trash was strewn everywhere and a few naked children were running about; the people were very poor. An animated woman wearing a Chinese- style peasant hat was talking with our SC guides and they were apparently working out some kind of arrangement. Finally, we were led to some long, wooden boats that were on the shore. I was surprised and relieved that we were going for a boat ride, away from the poverty and filth.
The boat driver started the motor and away we went into the direction of the great lake, the Tonle Sap! The water appeared thick and greenish- brown, the result of algae and suspended sediment.
We crossed the lake and approached what appeared to be another village: a floating village! As we got near, bright colors jumped out from every direction. Maybe it was the brown water and the gray and weathered wood of the dwellings that illuminated the bright palette of flowers, clothing, fabric, plastic buckets, signage, and steel barrels. And it was amazing that the boats and floating houses were painted in bright decorative designs. It was a scenery that displayed an appreciation for vibrancy and life!
The boat docked at a restaurant-- yes, it too, was floating-- and we all climbed on deck as we were greeted by a scrappy, but cute dog. Chenda, our SC guide and gracious host, took charge and ordered drinks and food for the table and soon we were enjoying cold sodas and beer, sun- dried fish and shrimp, steamed clams, and noodle dishes with beef and egg. Life was good!
Friday, May 28, 2010
Cool fans and street shoes...
There are two things I really enjoy about Cambodia. First, it is common to take a two hour siesta, from noon until 2pm each day-- the hottest part of the day. This I can really appreciate as the buildings in Pursat have little or no air conditioning. The oppressive heat and humidity makes it absolutely necessary to have lunch, take a cool shower, and then a short nap in front of a high speed fan. The second thing is that the people here take off their shoes before entering a building or someone's house. To do otherwise is disrespectful... so, to all my good friends out there whom I insisted take off your shoes before entering my home: "Finally, I have found others like me!"
Today I helped the librarian set up a database for checking out books. The library has several hundred books that are not cataloged and there are no check-out records. I found a trial version of a library checkout software that seemed to be a good tool... the catch, however, is that after cataloging 100 books, the trial version ends and a purchase is required. With little or no budget to purchase software, the library finds making improvements a bit difficult. I suggested we enter the books into the database and use it for a week or two to see how useful it is, and then.... a $49 purchase price? Not too shabby really... perhaps I can muster up a donation... but first, I'll check to see if there are any open source or free programs out there...
Today I helped the librarian set up a database for checking out books. The library has several hundred books that are not cataloged and there are no check-out records. I found a trial version of a library checkout software that seemed to be a good tool... the catch, however, is that after cataloging 100 books, the trial version ends and a purchase is required. With little or no budget to purchase software, the library finds making improvements a bit difficult. I suggested we enter the books into the database and use it for a week or two to see how useful it is, and then.... a $49 purchase price? Not too shabby really... perhaps I can muster up a donation... but first, I'll check to see if there are any open source or free programs out there...
Thursday, May 27, 2010
NEW: Villages of Veal and Prek- Py
I woke about 5:00 am in order to get ready for a journey to Veal and Prek- Py, two villages approximately 20- 30 km outside of Pursat. It was going to be a big day because each village had a ceremony scheduled where the villagers would be instructed on how to use their bio- sand filters before being issued a water container. For many years previous, villagers would get their drinking water out of the rivers during the dry season. But because of rapid growth of the towns nearby, the rivers can no longer be relied upon for clean drinking water. The bio- sand drinking filters are now important to these communities because they will remove harmful bacteria and viruses from the water. During the rainy season, each dwelling is equipped with rainwater collection where water is collected from the roof into large vase- type cisterns. The bio- sand filter plays an important role here too, as it can remove debris and contaminants. But education is essential because learning new ways of doing things often takes time, especially when there is maintenance and upkeep involved.
The road out to the villages began as a paved road and then quickly turned into compacted red dirt. Actually, the dirt roads weren't in too bad of shape and everything from motos, to bicycles, pedestrians, cows, dogs, and chickens were sharing the road with few cars and trucks. Whatever moves the fastest has the right-of-way, the only exception being cows and livestock-- all yield to these slowest moving travelers.
The journey was a lively experience, especially since Khmer music was playing in the car. I really like Khmer music and can't wait to bring some home with me... a romantic music of voice and violin-- reality seems to sway and dance and life is magical....
The farther one travels into the countryside, the more beautiful it gets! Mountains are off in the distance, there are rivers, and the scenery is lush. There are dwellings on stilts, rich pastures and rice fields-- it is a way of life I have only read about or imagined: simple, quiet, and beautiful.
The road out to the villages began as a paved road and then quickly turned into compacted red dirt. Actually, the dirt roads weren't in too bad of shape and everything from motos, to bicycles, pedestrians, cows, dogs, and chickens were sharing the road with few cars and trucks. Whatever moves the fastest has the right-of-way, the only exception being cows and livestock-- all yield to these slowest moving travelers.
The journey was a lively experience, especially since Khmer music was playing in the car. I really like Khmer music and can't wait to bring some home with me... a romantic music of voice and violin-- reality seems to sway and dance and life is magical....
The farther one travels into the countryside, the more beautiful it gets! Mountains are off in the distance, there are rivers, and the scenery is lush. There are dwellings on stilts, rich pastures and rice fields-- it is a way of life I have only read about or imagined: simple, quiet, and beautiful.
NEW: Villages of Veal and Prek- Py
I woke about 5:00 am in order to get ready for a journey to Veal and Prek- Py, two villages approximately 20- 30 km outside of Pursat. It was going to be a big day because each village had a ceremony scheduled where the villagers would be instructed on how to use their bio- sand filters before being issued a water container. For many years previous, villagers would get their drinking water out of the rivers during the dry season. But because of rapid growth of the towns nearby, the rivers can no longer be relied upon for clean drinking water. The bio- sand drinking filters are now important to these communities because they will remove harmful bacteria and viruses from the water. During the rainy season, each dwelling is equipped with rainwater collection where water is collected from the roof into large vase- type cisterns. The bio- sand filter plays an important role here too, as it can remove debris and contaminants. But education is essential because learning new ways of doing things often takes time, especially when there is maintenance and upkeep involved.
The road out to the villages began as a paved road and then quickly turned into compacted red dirt. Actually, the dirt roads weren't in too bad of shape and everything from motos, to bicycles, pedestrians, cows, dogs, and chickens were sharing the road with few cars and trucks. Whatever moves the fastest has the right-of-way, the only exception being cows and livestock-- all yield to these slowest moving travelers.
The journey was a lively experience, especially since Khmer music was playing in the car. I really like Khmer music and can't wait to bring some home with me... a romantic music of voice and violin-- reality seems to sway and dance and life is magical....
The farther one travels into the countryside, the more beautiful it gets! Mountains are off in the distance, there are rivers, and the scenery is lush. There are dwellings on stilts, rich pastures and rice fields-- it is a way of life I have only read about or imagined: simple, quiet, and beautiful.
The road out to the villages began as a paved road and then quickly turned into compacted red dirt. Actually, the dirt roads weren't in too bad of shape and everything from motos, to bicycles, pedestrians, cows, dogs, and chickens were sharing the road with few cars and trucks. Whatever moves the fastest has the right-of-way, the only exception being cows and livestock-- all yield to these slowest moving travelers.
The journey was a lively experience, especially since Khmer music was playing in the car. I really like Khmer music and can't wait to bring some home with me... a romantic music of voice and violin-- reality seems to sway and dance and life is magical....
The farther one travels into the countryside, the more beautiful it gets! Mountains are off in the distance, there are rivers, and the scenery is lush. There are dwellings on stilts, rich pastures and rice fields-- it is a way of life I have only read about or imagined: simple, quiet, and beautiful.
NEW: My first day in Pursat...
Time for catch- up!
I arrived at Sustainable Cambodia in Pursat on Saturday, May 22, 2010. Immediately upon my arrival, I was greeted by the other volunteers, Kevin, Paulina, and Anisha. They showed me to my room, which is pretty nice-- spacious and clean with a couple double beds, a desk, compact refrigerator, TV (not necessary!), and a large bath. I dropped my off my bags and then went to lunch at a restaurant down the street.
I arrived at Sustainable Cambodia in Pursat on Saturday, May 22, 2010. Immediately upon my arrival, I was greeted by the other volunteers, Kevin, Paulina, and Anisha. They showed me to my room, which is pretty nice-- spacious and clean with a couple double beds, a desk, compact refrigerator, TV (not necessary!), and a large bath. I dropped my off my bags and then went to lunch at a restaurant down the street.
Polin informed me that there was going to be an art drawing competition at 3:00 pm in the library and perhaps I should check it out. Thus began an afternoon of meeting the school children and teachers and it is no exaggeration that every time I turned around there was another student wanting to meet me! "Hello, how are you?" "What is your name?" Because learning English is so important in Cambodia, the children were very excited to have a new volunteer with whom they could practice their English. I had so many interesting and refreshing conversations-- one student wanted to talk about Barak Obama, the United States government, politics, and world history. Several other girls wanted to talk about their hopes, dreams and their experiences about being young women in Cambodia. In Cambodia, family traditions are strong and the girls openly expressed their frustration of being torn between continuing their education or honoring their obligations toward family. The cultural pressures for a young woman to stay at home and assist her struggling family and of finding a husband before she gets too old are great. Some of these girls want a quality education and the opportunity to study at a university or study abroad, but are unsure of how to access the resources that would help them to do so. They were curious about my history and how I managed to find my own independence. My response to this sensitive topic was to talk about the importance of finding balance in one's life, to continue learning for the benefit of one's self, while also giving attention to family and community. I could sense that the word "balance" and the idea of it was a bit new, but then I am always astounded at the idea when I think of it for myself......
In the mid- 1970's the Khmer Rouge wiped out education and schools in Cambodia by murdering teachers and the educated elites. The country is still in the long process of rebuilding its education system; the parents and grandparents of the current generation suffered greatly during the Khmer Rouge, but with each day, there is progress....
In Cambodia, opportunities for advancement are few, especially for the poor, but things can change rapidly in our contemporary economic climate-- it is possible that opportunities will open up to more young people in the future..... it seems there are many people and organizations that have good intentions, and are working towards building more resilient communities.....
After several hours of greetings and conversation, I was a bit wiped out! But I can hardly express in words the impression these interactions had on me; the young people of Pursat have such an appreciation for their education and they have a strong desire to want to do more for themselves and their community...
In the mid- 1970's the Khmer Rouge wiped out education and schools in Cambodia by murdering teachers and the educated elites. The country is still in the long process of rebuilding its education system; the parents and grandparents of the current generation suffered greatly during the Khmer Rouge, but with each day, there is progress....
In Cambodia, opportunities for advancement are few, especially for the poor, but things can change rapidly in our contemporary economic climate-- it is possible that opportunities will open up to more young people in the future..... it seems there are many people and organizations that have good intentions, and are working towards building more resilient communities.....
Sunday, May 23, 2010
Journey to Pursat!
Saturday morning, May 22nd, I woke up at 1:00 am because I had trouble sleeping. The film I saw the night before on human trafficking had quite on impact on me and, in addition, I thought I had lost $160 to the moto- driver that took me to the film venue the night before! What else is there to do but make a pot of coffee and check email and work on the blog that so badly needed updating! I stayed up and actually got quite a bit done and then packed my bags for my journey to Pursat! The van was to pick me up at 8:30 am at the Blue Lime and would then take me to the bus stop.
Because I was still upset about losing money, my ability to organize and remember where I had put things was in a downward spiral! One minute, I had my bus ticket, the next, I couldn't find it!!! I think this was due to the fact I stayed up all night and had quite a coffee buzz going, but once I was seated on the bus, all I had to do was sit for the journey and stare out the window. I was on my way to Pursat and, admittedly, was a bit anxious about what to expect once I got there.
A Khmer woman sat next to me and she was very sweet! We tried to communicate the best we could, but the difference between English and Khmer is night and day. There are no words that even slightly resemble the other and, eventually, we gave up and began to talk freely; it became unimportant whether or not we could understand one another. We continued smiling and making eye contact... and the "thumbs- up" gesture works great for communicating approval and affirmation! Another great way to communicate is in the sharing of food! First, she offered me pineapple candy. I looked through my bag and thank god I had a cookie filled with chocolate to offer her. She then offered me a bottle of water, a bag of fruit, dried beef (that was actually very good!), and more candy.... (pic of her in the album "Friends I've met along the way"
The drive out of Phnom Penh and into the countryside was amazing... and so different from Phnom Penh. Ox- driven carts with pottery, huge conical- shaped haystacks, rice fields, and houses on stilts... the countryside is really beautiful! About 3 hours into the trip, high mountains appeared to the west and I knew we were traveling deeper into rural Cambodia...
Finally, the bus stopped in Pursat and I called my contact at Sustainable Cambodia to pick me up. I waited out by the road with my two bright red suitcases and backpack. I certainly stood out and felt I was part of a scene in the movie, "Bagdad Cafe"! Polin finally drove up on a motorcycle and I wondered, "How the hell are we were going to get all my luggage AND me on one motorcycle?" Polin waved over another guy on a motorcycle and asked him to courier some of my luggage. He took the big bag and I took the smaller one and off we went!
Because I was still upset about losing money, my ability to organize and remember where I had put things was in a downward spiral! One minute, I had my bus ticket, the next, I couldn't find it!!! I think this was due to the fact I stayed up all night and had quite a coffee buzz going, but once I was seated on the bus, all I had to do was sit for the journey and stare out the window. I was on my way to Pursat and, admittedly, was a bit anxious about what to expect once I got there.
A Khmer woman sat next to me and she was very sweet! We tried to communicate the best we could, but the difference between English and Khmer is night and day. There are no words that even slightly resemble the other and, eventually, we gave up and began to talk freely; it became unimportant whether or not we could understand one another. We continued smiling and making eye contact... and the "thumbs- up" gesture works great for communicating approval and affirmation! Another great way to communicate is in the sharing of food! First, she offered me pineapple candy. I looked through my bag and thank god I had a cookie filled with chocolate to offer her. She then offered me a bottle of water, a bag of fruit, dried beef (that was actually very good!), and more candy.... (pic of her in the album "Friends I've met along the way"
The drive out of Phnom Penh and into the countryside was amazing... and so different from Phnom Penh. Ox- driven carts with pottery, huge conical- shaped haystacks, rice fields, and houses on stilts... the countryside is really beautiful! About 3 hours into the trip, high mountains appeared to the west and I knew we were traveling deeper into rural Cambodia...
Finally, the bus stopped in Pursat and I called my contact at Sustainable Cambodia to pick me up. I waited out by the road with my two bright red suitcases and backpack. I certainly stood out and felt I was part of a scene in the movie, "Bagdad Cafe"! Polin finally drove up on a motorcycle and I wondered, "How the hell are we were going to get all my luggage AND me on one motorcycle?" Polin waved over another guy on a motorcycle and asked him to courier some of my luggage. He took the big bag and I took the smaller one and off we went!
Friday, May 21, 2010
A busy day...
Last evening, I had a wonderful dinner with Dr. Ken Wilson and his wife, Verena. Good conversation and excellent food! We had dinner at an NGO called Romdeng (74 Street 174) that trains young Cambodian children about the culinary arts and the restaurant business. A memorable evening... and I really enjoyed the walk to and from our destinations.... thanks Ken and Verena!
Wow, what a day! It all began with meeting up with Kayla for breakfast and coffee, a student I met on the plane on the way to Cambodia... she's doing a 2 month internship with an NGO that deals with human trafficking... a European/ American breakfast was out of the question and we were determined to stumble upon a a more Khmer- type breakfast. Finally we saw the "Pink 3 Bubble Tea"-- very pink-- very, very pink, and I questioned whether or not it was actually a restaurant-- but it turned out to be really awesome! Stir- fried rice with seafood and a basil noodle and bubble teas hit the spot! The cuisine leaned toward Khmer-- healthy and good!
As a mentioned in an earlier post, the air is pretty steamy here, so it does not take long to completely drench your clothes in sweat... I swear that I am sweating out all the Western toxins I have accumulated in my body over the last several years.... surely I'll return to Texas with a healthy glow and at least 5 lbs. lighter! After breakfast, a quick dip in the pool at the Blue Lime was a great way to cool off!
In the afternoon, my friend, Da, picked me up on his motorcycle and off we went on one wild and red- dirt, dusty ride to Resource Development International of Cambodia outside of the city.! A great place and I do have lots of photos that I'll upload later!! RDIC does many things, but notably they make water purification systems/ cisterns, rope pumps (for pumping water from wells), and they are conducting research on all the provinces in Cambodia to determine whether or not the water wells they are currently using are tainted with arsenic.... a huge problem in Cambodia....
Tonight, I'll be meeting up with Kayla and her NGO coworkers for a movie about human trafficking in Cambodia... should be interesting.... and then perhaps some drinks out on the town... and then, I return to the Blue Lime to sit on the veranda and collect my thoughts and gather my focus for the bus trip to Pursat in the morning..... Pursat will be a completely different experience than Phnom Penh-- it is very rural and I'll have more day-to-day contact/ relations with the people there.....
Wow, what a day! It all began with meeting up with Kayla for breakfast and coffee, a student I met on the plane on the way to Cambodia... she's doing a 2 month internship with an NGO that deals with human trafficking... a European/ American breakfast was out of the question and we were determined to stumble upon a a more Khmer- type breakfast. Finally we saw the "Pink 3 Bubble Tea"-- very pink-- very, very pink, and I questioned whether or not it was actually a restaurant-- but it turned out to be really awesome! Stir- fried rice with seafood and a basil noodle and bubble teas hit the spot! The cuisine leaned toward Khmer-- healthy and good!
As a mentioned in an earlier post, the air is pretty steamy here, so it does not take long to completely drench your clothes in sweat... I swear that I am sweating out all the Western toxins I have accumulated in my body over the last several years.... surely I'll return to Texas with a healthy glow and at least 5 lbs. lighter! After breakfast, a quick dip in the pool at the Blue Lime was a great way to cool off!
In the afternoon, my friend, Da, picked me up on his motorcycle and off we went on one wild and red- dirt, dusty ride to Resource Development International of Cambodia outside of the city.! A great place and I do have lots of photos that I'll upload later!! RDIC does many things, but notably they make water purification systems/ cisterns, rope pumps (for pumping water from wells), and they are conducting research on all the provinces in Cambodia to determine whether or not the water wells they are currently using are tainted with arsenic.... a huge problem in Cambodia....
Tonight, I'll be meeting up with Kayla and her NGO coworkers for a movie about human trafficking in Cambodia... should be interesting.... and then perhaps some drinks out on the town... and then, I return to the Blue Lime to sit on the veranda and collect my thoughts and gather my focus for the bus trip to Pursat in the morning..... Pursat will be a completely different experience than Phnom Penh-- it is very rural and I'll have more day-to-day contact/ relations with the people there.....
Thursday, May 20, 2010
On the ground... my first impressions...
A chaotic and random display where there are few rules of the road to keep the constant current of mopeds, motorcycles, tuk tuks, bicycles, and few cars orderly and predictable.... but there is a certain order within the chaos that keeps everyone from crashing into each other... as a pedestrian, there is no right of way-- you just got to find an opening and jump in!
The air is thick, heavy, and hot! Many unidentifiable smells loom in the air from sunrise and into the evening. The streets are lined with food stalls, fruit and vegetable carts, and tiny storefronts selling everything from moped tire repairs, petro, clothing, and everyday simple items...
The people are warm and friendly... most are very poor but there is a small minority of middle class, revealed only by the presence of luxury cars, boutiques, finer restaurants, and higher- end stores. Lack of education and an atmosphere of corruption keep the greater majority of the population from rising out of poverty....
.....to be continued.....
The air is thick, heavy, and hot! Many unidentifiable smells loom in the air from sunrise and into the evening. The streets are lined with food stalls, fruit and vegetable carts, and tiny storefronts selling everything from moped tire repairs, petro, clothing, and everyday simple items...
The people are warm and friendly... most are very poor but there is a small minority of middle class, revealed only by the presence of luxury cars, boutiques, finer restaurants, and higher- end stores. Lack of education and an atmosphere of corruption keep the greater majority of the population from rising out of poverty....
.....to be continued.....
My arrival...
I arrived in Phnom Penh on Wednesday, May 19, 2010 at 11:35 am after enduring the long flight from Austin/Los Angeles/ Taipei, Taiwan/ Phnom Penh... total of about 15 hours in the air with little walking and sleeping. Eating, on the other hand, was plentiful but it was quite an adjustment to be served dinner at what seemed like 3:00 am! But hey, I'll eat anytime...!
I'm a window- seat person and love to see the landscape from above when I fly. Approaching Phnom Penh was a bit surprising in that it was not a grid of lighted neighborhoods and industrial development that I was so accustomed to seeing in the U.S., but rather, it was a grid of rice fields and agricultural plats delineated by only dirt roads. Few houses, no cars, no infrastructure, no blinking twinkles of urban development.
The city itself was a colorful mosaic of rooftops and buildings- blue, green, yellow, red..... lots of color (whereas the States is quite gray)! Very few cars! And lots and lots of mopeds and motorcycles.....
I'm a window- seat person and love to see the landscape from above when I fly. Approaching Phnom Penh was a bit surprising in that it was not a grid of lighted neighborhoods and industrial development that I was so accustomed to seeing in the U.S., but rather, it was a grid of rice fields and agricultural plats delineated by only dirt roads. Few houses, no cars, no infrastructure, no blinking twinkles of urban development.
The city itself was a colorful mosaic of rooftops and buildings- blue, green, yellow, red..... lots of color (whereas the States is quite gray)! Very few cars! And lots and lots of mopeds and motorcycles.....
Finally....!
Finally! Not only have I arrived in Cambodia, but I now have this blog up and running! After working out a few electronic snags, I hope to update Digital dreams@ Cambodia with writings about my everyday experiences, photos, and video uploads!
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